Lake Como: Breathtaking Villa Gardens and Lakeside Bliss

alexandriazozos
Jun 30
5 min read

Lake Como, view from Borgo le Terrazze — Lake Como, view from **Borgo le Terrazze**

Our Lake Como adventure began with a beautiful detour that perfectly captured the spontaneous spirit of Italian travel. While many visitors take the scenic train from Milan to Como city, we discovered last-minute tickets to an Atalanta vs. Roma match in Bergamo which required four wheels for more flexibility. So we hopped in the car in Milan, grabbed a prosciutto panini and headed north.

An Unexpected Football Pilgrimage

The hour-and-10-minute drive from Como to Bergamo felt like a thrilling prelude to what would become one of our most memorable cultural immersions. After dropping our bags at our hotel, we raced to witness something truly special: Atalanta clinching their Champions League spot for 2026 with a nail-biting 2-1 victory over Roma.

The Italian football experience proved as intense as advertised. Arriving only ten minutes after kickoff (parking proved trickier than expected), we found ourselves in what felt like a ghost town around the stadium. The security check was eye-opening—passports were requested to ensure we weren't Roma supporters, and our driver's licenses barely sufficed. But witnessing a packed stadium erupt as Atalanta secured a spot in Europe’s most exclusive football league? Pure magic. We'd do it again in a heartbeat.

A Room with a View at Borgo le Terrazze

Nestled fifteen minutes from downtown Bellagio in the winding hillside roads, Borgo le Terrazze delivered what might have been the most spectacular views of our entire Italian journey. Our terrace overlooked the pristine waters of Lake Como, framed by the dramatic Alpine backdrop that makes this region so impossibly romantic.

The included breakfast became a daily ritual of Italian indulgence, robust coffee paired with fresh yogurt adorned with local nuts and seeds, buttery croissants with house-made jam, and perfectly prepared eggs that fueled our daily explorations.

Day One: Bellagio, Tremezzo and Villa Carlotta's Botanical Paradise

Our first full day brought us to the heart of the Bellagio village, where cobblestone lanes wind through colorful boutiques, cafes, and trattorias. Perched at the intersection of Lake Como’s three branches, it’s easy to see why this picturesque town is called the “Pearl of the Lake. We climbed the iconic stairs and enjoyed a fresh pasta experience at Dai Viga where I had the ravioli prepared in extra-virgin olive oil and sage and Zack enjoyed the rigatoni in arrabbiata sauce.

Next stop was a quick ten-minute ferry ride to the enchanting Tremezzo area. Villa Carlotta, originally built by the Marquises Clerici at the end of the seventeenth century, was later gifted to Princess Charlotte (Carlotta in Italian) of Prussia as a wedding present in 1843.

The €15 entry fee proved a bargain for access to 70,000 square meters of botanical gardens featuring rhododendrons, azaleas, magnolias, and tree ferns, all set within a romantic landscape garden that transported us through centuries of horticultural artistry. Pro tip: tickets are available day-of, but Villa del Balbianello requires advance booking—we learned this the hard way when tickets were sold out.

After hours wandering through Villa Carlotta's exotic plantings, we crossed the street to the beach club at the legendary Grand Hotel Tremezzo. Dating back to 1910, this family-run luxury hotel has welcomed Europe's elite for over a century, maintaining its position as one of Lake Como's most prestigious addresses and even served as a backdrop for the 1932 film Grand Hotel, starring Greta Garbo.

Our Aperol Spritz—comically oversized and absolutely delicious—paired perfectly with the lakeside atmosphere before afternoon rain sent us scurrying back to the ferry.

Evening Indulgence at Osteria Il Governo 1801

Dinner brought us to Osteria Il Governo 1801, a family-run gem spanning seven generations—the kind of place that makes you feel incredibly fortunate to secure a last-minute reservation. The intimate atmosphere and generational expertise created the perfect setting for an unforgettable meal.

Zack's Beef Fillet arrived perfectly cooked with celeriac puree and beef jus infused with Amarone—a preparation that showcased both technical skill and regional wine knowledge. My Pasta Calamarata featured Sicilian pistachio pesto with strips of coppa piacentina was the perfect blend of northern and southern flavors.

We wrapped up the evening with panna cotta adorned with biscotti crumble and caramel sauce, a dessert that managed to be both rustic and refined.

Wine Pairing: The beef dish paired magnificently with a local Lombardy red—try a Valtellina Superiore DOCG made from Nebbiolo grapes grown on the Alpine terraces. The wine's earthy complexity and structured tannins complement the Amarone-braised beef beautifully. For the pasta, consider a crisp Lugana DOC from the southern shores of Lake Garda, whose mineral-driven profile enhances the pistachios and balances the rich coppa.

Day Two: Varenna's Romantic Promenade & Lierna

Despite good intentions, we got a late start adjusting to the time change and decided to drive to Varenna rather than take the car ferry—learn from our mistake! The hour-long drive around the lake offered beautiful scenery, but the car ferry would have been far more efficient.

Varenna itself charmed us completely with its maze of shops and historical corners. The Lovers' Walk, outlined with its distinctive red fence, provided some of the most romantic lake views imaginable in less than a mile of gentle walking.

Lunch at Varenna Caffè Bistrot put us right in the heart of the action with a classic Italian caprese panini that hit all the right notes—fresh mozzarella, ripe tomatoes, and basil that tasted like summer itself, paired intentionally with a basil infused liqueur cocktail.

Villa Cipressi (€10 entry) delivered the iconic Lake Como photograph opportunity—that famous fence leading down to the water that graces countless Instagram feeds. The line of tourists wrapping around the grounds was our first clue we'd stumbled upon something special. For the ambitious, Villa Monastero sits right next door offering additional gardens for another €10.

Our return journey included a somewhat ambitious "swim" in Lake Como's famously cold waters at nearby Spiaggia di Lierna, offering a quiet beach setting that felt refreshingly peaceful and made even more welcoming by a family of social ducks. The drive through Lecco brought us to Al Borgo Antico City for a few slices of pizza including four cheese, and onion before heading back.

Reflections on a Perfect Lake Como Experience

Back on our terrace that evening, sharing a bottle of local red wine as the sun set over the lake, we reflected on what had quickly become one of the most gorgeous places we'd ever traveled. Lake Como's magic lies not just in its undeniable natural beauty that you can lose hours in, but its ability to create spontaneous moments and find hidden gems and tradition.

Recommendations: Give yourself at least 2-3 full days in Lake Como, depending on where you want to visit (we could have easily spent 5). If you're planning to explore multiple areas around Lake Como or day trips to Bergamo and other surrounding areas, a rental car provides invaluable flexibility despite the narrow, winding roads. Just don't look over the cliff edges—it's quite the drop!

Next up: Our journey continues in Venice...